WARNING FOR MY AMAZON CUSTOMERS

There are other sellers now selling low grade cheap Chinese knock offs of my bearing sets on Amazon. Please be sure you are buying from:

"FRONT LOAD WASHER BEARING KITS" (My Amazon seller name)

I am the only seller on Amazon giving the real 5 year warranty and genuine Nachi bearings made in Japan

Please CLICK HERE to continue to my Amazon store. Thanks, James,

Buy using eBay Buy using Newegg Buy using Storeenvy View on Instagram

 

Additional Information

Additional Information
  • Home

Account Navigation

Account Navigation

Currency - All prices are in AUD

Currency - All prices are in AUD
 Loading... Please wait...
  • My Account
  
FRONT LOAD BEARINGS
 

WARNING FOR MY AMAZON CUSTOMERS

There are other sellers now selling low grade cheap Chinese knock offs of my bearing sets on Amazon. Please be sure you are buying from:

"FRONT LOAD WASHER BEARING KITS" (My Amazon seller name)

I am the only seller on Amazon giving the real 5 year warranty and genuine Nachi bearings made in Japan

Please CLICK HERE to continue to my Amazon store. Thanks, James,

Buy using eBay Buy using Newegg Buy using Storeenvy View on Instagram

 

Installing the new rear bearing.nice and easy

 

 

Welcome back to frontloadbearings.com.  Now we get to the fun part which is installing the bearings because that’s what the whole purpose was in the first place, right?  So, this becomes nice and easy.  So, here’s your new bearing and here’s your old one.  The outside one is pretty knackered, it was a real cheap bearing anyway.  I don’t even know who made it.  Anyway, just so you know, the bearings that I use are all high speed motor bearings.  So this one right here was rated more than 7 times what is required here.  Plus, the tolerances on these are really tight as well.  Another thing to know with it as well, this particular bearing can handle over  2,000 pounds of weight.  That’s like the size of a Ford Fiesta or something so these can actually be used as wheel bearings in cars as well and obviously you’re only putting jeans and towels in them so it makes it easy.  All you need to do is just drop the bearing in.  Now, the main thing we wanna do here is make sure the bearing goes in straight and doesn’t cock.  Simplest way to do that, is to take the old bearing and sit it straight on top.  Now, bear in mind that the only area we want to make contact with is this outside race so any banging is only on the outside race because obviously we don’t want to damage the ball bearings themselves or the inner race.  So, really simple way, when you get this out, this thing’s going to be covered in grease so I would get it all cleaned up (and I actually did that).  Now, all I’m gonna do is lay this one on top, just like so.  And we don’t care about ruining the old one so we’re just gonna start banging it.  And again, having a heavy enough hammer makes all the difference in the world.  As you can see, I’m alternating the sides and kind of taking a look at it and we can see that this is going in very nicely indeed.  And, we’re not having to use much pressure, we’re just taking our time, knocking it down into place.  Take it out, take a look at it to make sure it’s not cocking while going in there at all.  Now, when we get to the bottom, you are also going to hear the knocking noise change pitch when we hit the bottom because right now, every time I’m hitting this, the bearing is moving.  And when we get to the bottom, it will stop moving and you will hear it change pitch.  Now, you hear that?  It totally changed pitch, the bearing is now seated all the way in, nice and flush, no worries, no damage to the inner race or the shielding here at all.  The groove that the circlet goes back in to is totally available to have the circlet back in.  And that’s it!  So if you want to know when it’s seated you can rewind the video about 30 seconds or so, listen to the change of the pitch, that’s how you know if the bearing has made its way all the way home.  So, now I’m just gonna put the circlet back in.  Again, I am using a really old pair of circlet or “spring clip” (as you Americans say) pliers.  If you buy a new pair from Home Depot or Harbor Freight, you’ll be doing a better job than me.  I have to go buy myself a new set but that would actually mean stopping at the store and doing it.  I haven’t quite figured that bit out yet.  Alright.  Again, I’m doing this at a bit of a weird angle than I normally would because I’m trying to keep out of the way of you guys so you can see what’s going on.  So… I’m making a bit of a pig’s ear out of this.  This is the part where you can all laugh and say, “I can’t believe he’s making such a complete cockup here.”  Alright, it went in.  Bingo.  Alright, so that’s in.

So, next video, we are gonna spin this around and we are gonna do the inner bearing in the same manner and we are gonna do the seal as well.  And we are going to use the old bearing to drive the new ones in.  Thanks for watching, cheers!

 

washer bearing kit, washer bearing kits, washer bearing, washer bearings, Washing Machine Repair, Washer Repair, Clothes Washer Repair, Appliance parts, kenmore, gibson, frigidaire, white westinghouse, bearing noise, drum assembly, seal leak, washer noise, washing machine repair video, front load washer banging noise, kenmore front load washer loud noise, front load washer drum banging, front load washer making loud noise, kenmore washer banging, how to replace bearings on front load washer, lg front load washer bearings, kenmore front load washer bearings, washer bearing replacement cost, maytag washer bearing, front load washer bearing, maytag neptune washer bearing, whirlpool duet washer bearing replacement, washer bearing replacement, washer bearing noise